Back alley Japanese BBQ: Pure joy on a stick

A few days ago, I ate one of the best meals I've had in Dalian.

I've eaten well here, to be sure: dumplings of all variety at DaQingHua, curry at Abashi, pizza at Noah's. Add to that list Japanese barbecue at the pragmatically-named Barbecue Coals.

Consider the selection:

Grilled chicken teriyaki with a hint of lemon, covered in melted cheese.

Shitake mushrooms, cooked soft, subtle, and simple.

Asparagus, something I haven't had in China, roasted and served with a dollop of mayonnaise on the side, which I indulged in but felt guilty about (for masking the taste of the vegetable; I don't so much worry about cholesterol at this kind of meal).

Cherry tomatoes, wrapped in bacon, broiled.

Hard-boiled quail eggs.

Nine of us crowded into one of the restaurant's curtained private rooms--three West Coast Americans, a Londoner, a French Canadian and his Chinese girlfriend, a Newfoundlander, two Koreans. I list these because despite the disparate upbringings and varied palettes, we all walked away stuffed and satisfied.

I love meals like this. Close friends, great food and an unhurried atmosphere make for one of life's great joys.

My enjoyment of food usually extends to taking a few photos of the cuisine before it disappears, but in this case, I'm afraid I was distracted (the Asahi did not help). I have on my camera only one out of focus and over-exposed image of enoki mushrooms wrapped in bacon (a theme we pushed perhaps too far, but probably not). Suffice to say that presentation was simple, with most of the food served on skewers and brought to us just slow enough that we felt hungry until we realized we were full.

In all, we spent about 100 RMB each. Expensive for a single meal that didn't include imported wine, but this was one of the rare occasions when I did a quick mental conversion and thought, "I'd have paid far more than $13 for this in any other country."

How to find it (via DalianDalian.com)

Address: 长江路复生巷5号 cháng jiāng lù, xià shēng xià ng, number 5 Tucked about 10 metres down an alley, the entrance to which is along Chang Jiang Road halfway between the back of the Shangri La (Tin Whistle) and Minzu Square (towards the You Hao area). Some red lanterns outside, in an old building, around 3 floors tall. Telephone: 82806502, 13998560574

Before: Panda Punching: The Dems on China | After: Slow boat to Korea: Act One